Before proceeding to the individual monuments of Chanderi it may be of interest to the visitor to know certain essential characteristics of its historic architecture. A vast majority of he exiting standing monuments at Chanderi were raised in the the years between 1312 A.D. to 1687 A.D. These could be broken down into three main groups, Islamic architecture from the period of the Sultan's of Delhi, the Mughal period, and then which comprise the majority, the Malwa Indo-Islamic. Also there are monuments that are a mixture of these styles.
Chanderi has a number of ancient Hindu and Jain temple ruins, fragments, statues, and idols in modern and medieval temples which by style and speculation date probably to the 10th to 13th centuries (no inscriptions on these statues and idols have been found to confirm their dates).
Chanderi has over 1000 mosques, over 1000 wells and ponds, 100s of tombs, 100s of temples, and many other monuments, haveli palaces, gates, and other constructions. In this chapter are listed some of the most famous.
Boodi Chanderi (Old Chanderi) 1000 A.D.
During the 10th century A.D. Boodi Chanderi was a very prosperous town situated 18 kilometers away from present Chanderi. Even today the ruins of this abandoned town still gives an idea how rich this place might have been. Originally it was a town known as Chandra Puri and was the capital of Chedi Maha Janpath. German Historian Claus Boon and the historian from Gwalior Heritage Society M.B. Gardey documented the ruins of 55 Jain and Hindu temples. Most of these temples are in the style of the 10th and 11th century A.D. The art and foundations of these temples resemble the style of the Chandela Dynasty, not unlike those at Khajuraho and nearby Deogarh. Today nearly all of the temples of Boodi Chanderi lie in complete ruin. At present Old Chanderi stands amidst dense forest with no roads or trails leading to most of the temple sites.
The Indian Archeological Department has collected as as many of these temple fragments as they could find and has installed them in the new Chanderi Museum. They have moved all of these valuable historical objects to the museum because temple robbers and looters have in the past pillaged the site. In fact in 2006 the head of a major Jain statue was sawed off and stolen by looters in one of the few intact temples left in Boodi Chanderi. A sati pillar has been found in this area with an inscription dating the year 1488 and denotes Boodi Chanderi as being called Nasirabad. Today the noteworthy sites at Old Chanderi are a Jain Monastery with temples inside and the ruins of a Hindu palace known as the Fort of Shishupal, whose architecture dates it to the 14th or 15th Century A.D. and has installed inside pillars dating to the Chandela period.
Various research has been done in this area to document the ruins and art, but little if no research as to the history of Boodi Chanderi has yet to be made which can reveal the history of this mysterious place.
Kirti Durg (The Hill Fort of Chanderi) founded 11th century A.D.
The foundation of Kirti Durg was constructed by Raja Kirti Pal in the 11th Century A.D. over the next centuries major construction, demolitions, and reconstruction have created the fort we see today. Existing additions to Kirti Durg have been made by Alauddin Khilji of Delhi, Mahmood Khilji of Malwa, Ibrahim Lodi of Delhi, The Mughal dynasty, and Sher Shah Soon of Delhi.
The fort extends in a five kilometer radius. Inside the main fort is The Nokhanda Palace, Khilji Mosque, tomb of Hazrat Abdul Rehman Naar Nooli Baba, a pond, and the modern Jauhar memorial, which are worth visiting. Kirti Durg has withstood many attacks in the course of history. In 1528 Mughal Emperor Babur captured the fort in a historic battle that also saw over 600 woman of the Rajput court commit ritual suicide by jauhar where they threw themselves into fire to escape capture by the enemy. A more full account of this battle can be read in the History chapter of this book.
The fort is situated on a hill 190 meters above the town. Passages to the fort go through the Jageshwari Temple, Fuhari Baba, and the old main entrance the Khooni Darwaya gate. A modern road has been made leading up to the main fort that can be reached by Lalitpur Road. At one corner of the fort is the beautifully carved Khilji Mosque from the 14th Century A.D. This monument has the verses of the Quran inscribed in stone in Nask script. At the Southeastern end of the fort is the ancient Giloba pond. A Shiva Lingam is visible in the ponds walls, which denotes there must have been a Shiva temple there in earlier times.
The view of the sunrise and sunset from the fort is breathtaking. It commands a comprehensive view of the city on one side and a lake to the other.
Parmeshwar Taal (Parmeshwar Pond)
The Parmeshwar Taal was once a naturally formed pond and now is an enclosed pool. The date as to when the pond was first enclosed is unknown and ancient. Popular legend tells that this is the pond where King Kriti Pal experienced "the miracle of water" which lead to the founding of Chanderi. (One can read in the chapter, Miracle of Water this full story.)
It is situated to the North West of the fort and Delhi Gate. One can reach it though a raised walkway that meanders above and through farm fields on the edge of the city. Along the walkway to the pond one can see the royal tombs of the horses of the Bundela Kings of Chanderi, and it was at this spot that the stables of the royal horses once existed.
Today the Parmeshwar Taal itself is an enclosed pool with step ghats on two sides and the large Laxman Temple on another side. There is a small bride over the water that leads to a small viewing platform in the middle of the pond that affords views of this tranquil area just outside of the main town.
Around the area of the pond are three of the largest tombs in Chanderi. One is the popular Shezadi Ka Rauza (Tomb of Princes). Then there is the tomb of King Bharat Shah 1654 A.D. and third is a still unverified tomb of a royal.
Behind the Laxman Temple is an ancient Shiva Temple whose style resembles those constructed during the period of the Pratihara Rajputs (11th to 12th century A.D.). There is a similar Shiva Temple situated in a field behind the tomb of Bharat Shah that was made during the rule of Maharaja Man Singh in the 16th century.
A legend associated with the Parmeshwar Taal telling of the founding of the Laxman Temple that stands on its banks. Once there was a group of devotees who reached the pond and stayed overnight there to rest. They were carrying an idol of the god Laxman which they placed under a peepal tree. In the morning the devotees tried to pick up the idol but it would not budge. They all tried but could not move it. They decided that the reason for this was that the god wanted to stay here at this spot, and preformed rituals to erect it there. Now it is said that the present Laxman temple stands at this same spot.
Sri Jageshwari Temple - 11th A.D.
There are no inscriptions or writings as to the actual founding date of the Sri Jageshwari Temple. However certainly some parts of the temple complex are ancient and must date back to the 11th century A.D. or even earlier origin.
The main idol of Sri Jageshwari is said to date to the 11th century and natural forming from the living rock of the cliff. Legend has it that the King Kriti Pal the 11th century Pratihara Rajput ruler of Old Chanderi was cured of his leprosy while bathing in a pool. He saw an apparition of the goddess Jageshwari who told him to build a temple on the spot where the Sri Jageshwari Temple now stands. The king however broke part of his promise to the goddess and she manifested only her face, which can be seen today as the main idol of the temple. (read the chapter The Miracle Of Water for a more detailed account of this story.) It was after this legendary event that the actual King Kriti Pal began the construction of the hill fort named after him that is above the temple.
The face of the goddess Jageshwari which is the temples main idol is located in an open cave on the east side of the Kriti Durg hill fort. A modern temple has been built around the cave and devotees come daily for darshan and puja.
It can be reached by a staircase winding down from the fort or from below by climbing a wide staircase up the hill. The latter is now considered the main entrance into the temple. One of the features of this temple are that natural springs flow from the cliff all year round despite the fact that they are over 100 hundred feet above the town, and also that Chanderi itself is 2200 feet above sea level. There are at least three of these natural spots here where what are called sacred springs flow. Accordingly the water from these springs is considered holy.
The temple has a number of other very interesting features. There are rock cut carvings of Shiva and Parvati that appear to be in the Chandela style which dates to the 10th and 11th centuries. There are numerous other rock cut carvings made from the living cliff around the temple complex. There is installed a very ancient and large Shiva Lingam called the eleven hundred Shiva Lingam because there are 1100 lingam carved around its sides. Also there is a smaller Shiva Lingam with four faces of Shiva carved around its sides that is placed under one of the natural springs that falls from the cliff side. Both are of ancient origin. Quite possibly these Shiva Lingam were once in their own temples inside the Kriti Durg Fort, but because of time and the events of history are now installed here at the Jageshwari Temple.
By taking the staircase above the main temple one can see two Shiva Lingam which are by another sacred spring. A shallow cave and small pool has been carved at this spot and the natural spring water is collected in it. From this spot a breathtaking view of Chanderi can be seen.
Sri Chandraprabh Digambar Jain Temple - ancient
Chanderi is divided into two parts, the inner town and the outer town. In the outer town one of the colonies is name Manganj. It is said that in ancient times there lived in the Mangani colony a prominent businessman of the Jain community who built a Jain temple there and the temple came to be know as Chandraprabh which may have been the name of this businessman. There is no inscription or writings on the builder or construction of this temple. However on some of the statues in this temple are inscribed dates that correspond with 1147 A.D. and 1204 A.D. and some of the statues have dates that correspond to the 9th century A.D. This temple is considered much more ancient than the rest of Chanderi and it is used today as a meditation center for Jain devotees.
Dargah of Hazrat Wajihuddin (year ?????)
India is known for its tradition of having saints and sages who spread the words of harmony and help among the people. Chanderi has the Dargahs (tombs) of 100s of saints within and around the area of the town.
The Dargah of Hazrat Wajihuddin is one of the earliest and most famous in Chanderi. Hazrat Wajihuddin reached Chanderi in the year 1395 A.D. He was born in 1260 at Kaal Kahar where he spent his childhood. As a young man Hazrat Wajihuddin with his parent's permission moved to Delhi where he served under the Sufi Saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya as a disciple. Hazrat Wajihuddin spent most of his time in meditation in a small hut in Gyas Pur Delhi.
He was appointed by Sultan Allauddin Khilji to look look after the poor and needy of Chanderi. In his appointment he so spread the word of Allah on unity, equality, brotherhood, and harmony, that he gained 1000s of disciples in Chanderi and also other towns.
During that time the head of the province, a Malik Tamar Sultan became very jealous of Hazrat Wajihuddin. 1000s of people visited Hazrat Wajihuddin's Darbaar and no longer coming to pray at the Sultan's Darbaar. Out of Jealousy Malik Tamar Sultan instigated an attack on Hazrat Wajihuddin Ashram. Soon a civil war started and more attacks from the Sultan's army followed with many of Hazrat Wajihuddin devotees killed and injured. The Sultan also sent a letter to Hazrat Wajihuddin to leave Chanderi. The situation was grave and many devotees fled. One devotee requested that Hazrat Wajihuddin move to Lukhnoti and that he would bear all the expenses an also build an ashram for him there. However Hazrat Wajihuddin refused and replied that he had not come to Chanderi on his own wish but had been ordered by his gurus to serve here, and he could not defy their order.
For guidance Hazrat Wajihuddin traveled to Delhi and met with Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. On consulting Nizamuddin he went back to Chanderi where he constructed a new Ashram and continued his service till his passing in 1328. <--- ??? year is contradicary ?????, Also where is this tomb?
The Delhi Gateway - 1411 A.D.
The Delhi Gate is one of the main entrances to Chanderi's inner town and today it leads onto the Sadar Bazaar, Chanderi's main shopping thoroughfare. This large gateway is situated on the North side of town by the Chanderi Lalitpur road. It faces North toward Delhi which gives it its name. On both sides of the gateway are carvings of soldiers on elephants. An inscription on the gate in Farsi and Nask script states that this construction began during the rule of Sultan Nushrat Shah under the guidance of Dilawar Khan and the supervision of Usmaan Bin Zakaria. It was completed during the rule of Sultan Haushang Shah of Malwa in the year 1411 (A.D.).
Tombs of Sufi Saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya's disciples - 1424 A.D.
This tomb complex is one of the most impressive and beautiful monument sites in Chanderi. The intricate stone work here on the walls of the tombs are masterfully carved. It is situated towards the South within the inner city. Currently the site is conserved by the Archeological Survey of India.
Sometimes listed as the tombs of the family of Nizamuddin it may be more accurate to say this site houses the tombs of the disciples of Sufi Saint Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya. Some of the tombs have been inscribed as being constructed during the years 1424 and 1425 A.D. during the rule of Sultan Haushang Shah Ghori by his minister in Chanderi Malik Salaar.
Astana (this name and year ?????)
Astana is located near Parmeshwar Pond and entered on the Rajhat Chanderi road. Urs are celebrated in this Dargah every year between 27th to 29th of March when 1000s of devotees flock in celebration to offer chadars and pray for the fulfillment of their wishes.
Kushk Mahal 1445 A.D.
The chronicler Mohammad Kasim in his book the Farishta writes that Sultan Mehood Shah Khilji attacked and defeated Sharki Sultan Mehmood of Jaunpur at Kalpi in the year 1445 A.D. After the victory when he returned to his capital in Mandu the Sultan expressed that they should celebrate their victory in the form of a seven day celebration. At that time he also ordered a seven story building and a village to be called Zafrabad constructed near Chanderi for the advent when the sultan would visit.
It had been said that the Sultan ordered the construction of the Kushk Mahal as a civil project to help the population of Chanderi. At this time in Chanderi there was a shortage of work and many were unemployed. Using his victory in battle as a pretext the sultan ordered the construction of Kushk Mahal to give the people of Chanderi work and pay. 100s of workers spent years building this fanciful Mahal.
Kushk Mahal is located four kilometers from Chanderi off the Isagarh Road. The monument is erected on four pillars and is 116 square feet in size. Each story is 15 feet high and the verandahs are 43 by 43 feet wide. The two main door entrances are 45 feet high and 26 feet wide. The width of the walls are 10 feet thick. Every story has six doors and one window. The architect of this palace has blended and incorporated the styles of the Malwa Islamic, Iranian, Afghani, and Indian Vedic architecture forms.
At one side the monument is decorated with lotus flowers and on the other side betel leaves. As one enters the palace staircases from both sides lead up to each story. At the doors of each staircase are a few lines inscribed in Farshi and Nask script. As the structure exists today there are three fully constructed floors and a fourth half constructed.
There are conflicting stories as to if the Kushk Mahal's planned seven stories were ever completed. Some argue that the project was never completed, while others say that all seven stories were built but only three and a half exist today. It has been told that during the 1930s and 40s the Kushk Mahal went through a restoration project. Workers from Chanderi who helped clear the palace state that there were vast amounts of large stones inside and outside the monument that were surly parts of upper floors. It has also been said that after the events of 1857 the British Army instigated the demolition of many palaces and Mahals in retaliation against the royalty and aristocracy who had attempted revolution against them. The Kushk Mahal was one of the buildings that was cannon shot by the British Army.
Another story that is associated with the Kushk Mahal is that when construction of this monument began and the first story was almost complete the problem of lifting the very large and thick stones to the second story arose. To overcome this problem the first story was covered with dirt and an incline hill on four sides served as a ramp for the large stones to be hoisted. So as each story was complete it was buried and not until the project was fully finished that cleaning was done to reveal the whole building.
Badal Mahal Gate 1450 A.D.
The Badal Mahal Gate is arguably Chanderi's defining monument. It has been given recognition nation wide and when the town of Chanderi is represented it is the Badal Mahal Gate that is used to symbolize it. For example, the Indian Postal Department issued a cancellation stamp for all posts leaving Chanderi and it bears the image of the Badal Mahal Gate. Also the Madhya Pradesh Government Cottage Industries uses a stamp bearing the image of the Badal Mahal Gate on all Sari and dress materials it manages.
The fort town of Chanderi was protected by seven boundary walls surrounding the town and the fort on the hill with each wall having several gates and windows. Many of these gates have been ruined by the forces of time and nature. Among the gates that can still be seen the Badal Mahal Gate has retained its own identity and uniqueness.
This gate was built during the reign of Mehmood Shah Khilji in 1450 A.D. It is situated at the Southern end of the inner city near and facing the Jama Masjid and looking up commands a striking view of the fort above.
This tall gate was constructed with two towers which are joined together with arches and windows to give a gate like form. The upper portion of the gate shows four beautifully carved windows, each with a different design motif. Beneath the widows are an open section where attractive sculptured forms are placed. On the other side of the gate is a hanging balcony where the musicians used to sit to entertain guests. This balcony was also used to shower flower petals on the guests as they passed under.
It is said that along with the Badal Mahal Gate a grand guesthouse was built for aristocratic visitors. After being received through the gate and feted with flower petals and music the guests were led to the guesthouse palace. However this talked about palace now no longer exists and no trace of it can be found. So its actual past existence can not be verified.
There are a lot of tales about how this gate came to be known as The Badal Mahal Gate. So say that probably the towers were so high they seemed to touch the sky. Others say that because of the unique balcony on the gate where musicians sat to play their vadak (musical instruments) that badal is a distortion of vadak. However no one really know the real reason why or exactly when the gate gained the name it has today.
Shezadi Ka Rauza (Tomb of Princes) - Probably 15th Century A.D.
The Shezadi Ka Rauza memorial is arguably the most impressive tomb of Chanderi. It appears to date from the 15th Century A.D. There are no inscriptions regarding it, therefore there is no accurate information as to its construction. It is situated near the Parmeshwar Pond and Laxman Temple.
The story that behind the memorial is that Mehrunisa, a daughter of a royal named Hakim of Chanderi, fell in love with the chief of the Army. Mehrunisa's father was against the alliance because he wanted to arrange her marriage to a prince. He tried to explain this to his daughter and well as to the head of the army. Despite all the couple refused to comply with his wishes. The father then decided to take drastic action. When the army was preparing to go to a battle he hired some soldiers to assassinate the army chief when the battle was over. The soldiers carried out the plan Hakim had hired them for but the chief was only seriously injured and escaped and then somehow rode his horse back to Chanderi. He fell and died from his wounds at the place where the memorial now stands. When Mehrunisa came to know about it she reached the spot where her lover lay dead. She could not bear it and ended her life too.
Hakim then buried both of them together and constructed a pond around it so that nobody could reach their tomb. The reason behind this is that his daughter had gone against his wishes, but since he loved her so, he constructed a large and beautiful tomb for her and her lover, but placed it in the middle of the pond to symbolize the impossibilty of the situation. Today the pond no longer exists and the tomb is surrounded by farmland.
Purana Madrasa (Old School) - 1470 A.D.
This monument is not what it's name appears to be. It is actually the tomb of two saints. It is known that there was once a university (Darool Uloom) near the Purana Madrasa and its ruins can be seen nearby. The monument was built under the rule of Gyas Shah in the year 1470 A.D. The walls of the tomb are carved with an exceptionally fine Jaalies motif. In the past there must have been five domes on the roof and the ruins here give only an impression of how beautiful the monument must have been. There is an inscription at the back wall of the monument which states that a Bawdi (step well) was constructed here which is similar to the Bawdi of Babylon.
Qazion Ki Bawdi (Qazion Step Well) - 1485 A.D.
This bawdi was constructed by Mehran the second of the Qazi family during the reign of Dalat A Sher Khan Gazi in the year 1485 A.D. This bawdi appears like a bracelet with a circular well and long winding staircases that descend in spirals against the edges down into the well.
Along the staircases are two inscriptions in Nask Script and Farsi language. The inscription tells that four constructions here have been done during the rule of Dalat A Sher Khan Gazi. They are this bawdi, a beautiful palace guesthouse, a mosque, and a garden. The inscription states that the guesthouse is built to resemble a famous palace in Bagdad and has been constructed near the bawdi. It also states the garden here is known as Atishey Namrood. The garden is now in ruin and the palace almost destroyed, however the mosque and bawdi can still be seen.
The writer of the inscription had prayed to Allah that the water of this bawdi should taste like sugar and honey until the end of the world. Qazion Ki Bawdi is situated at the North Western side of the main city and is near the Purana Madrasa (Old School).
Battisi Bawdi - 1484 A.D.
This famous bawdi is located at the North Eastern side of Chanderi. There is an inscription near the main door into the the bawdi which states that this bawdi and mosque was completed in 1484 by Sher Khan during the rule of Sultan Gyas Shah Khilji. And that by the grace of Allah the water of this bawdi stays stable as long as there are waters in the oceans.
The unique feature of this bawdi is that the water remains remains at one level throughout the year at the base of the staircase. Battisi Bawdi is 60 feet by 60 feet square and four stories deep. It's main entrance is though a long straight staircase that leads down and each story has an arch doorway. At the bottom of the main staircase ghats are constructed on all four side of the bawdi with niche doors on two sides.
Kurbani Chabootra - (what year ?????_constructed )
The Kurbani Chabootra is a large platform foundation set two kilometers to the Western side of Chanderi's main town and is near an ancient step well. Only a platform and a few pillars was built and it gives the impression that its architect might have had an elaborate plan for this uncompleted construction. Kurbani Chabootra is 120 feet by 96 feet and made of white balwa stone. It is reached by a very broad stone staircase on its Southern side. The Pillars used here are similar to those used at Kushk Mahal. In between the platform are the tombs of three saints. There are no inscriptions remaining for this monument so verification is not yet possible. It has been speculated that Khilju Sultan wanted to make this platform for the purpose of delivering farmann and teachings to the his followers.
Ram Nagar Palace and Museum - 1698 A,D.
This palace is four Kilometers from the main town and can be found on the road leading through the Kati Ghati (rock cut gate). The palace was built for the Maharaja Durjan Singh Bundela as a retreat for hunting and sightseeing. In front of the palace is a large artificial lake called Mehjatiya Talaab made in 1510 A.D. by the Governor Behjat Khan. The original name of the lake was Behjad Khan Tallab, however over time the name has been changed.
The palace construction gives the idea that the stones used were taken from other old palaces or monuments. Its selection of stones are not uniform and also the size and shape of the blocks are not the same. The palace is in a tranquil setting with the Vidhyanchal Hills on three sides. The palace grounds has a wide wall along the lakeside that afford a walkway for strolls.
At present the Ram Nagar Palace houses a museum maintained by the state of Madhya Pradesh. The museum has a collection of Hindu temple fragments of gods and devi in the Chandela style and some fine examples of large well preserved sati stones. The collection was gathered from the villages which were submerged under the Raj Ghat Dam project near Chanderi.
Historically this is the lake where the Emperor Babar camped in preparation of his attack on Chanderi. In his memoir Babar writes that he departed from this pond on the night of 27th January, 1528 and the next day took Chanderi fort.
Navgrah Shani Dev Temple (year built ?????)
You can reach Navgrah Shani Dev Temple on the Chanderi Mungoli road. It is near the Jama Masjid and at one of the corners of the now ruined Glass Temple. It was built by Medini Rai during his reign in the 1520s A.D. and now the modern Navgrah Temple is by the site.
The story that has grown around this temple is that the king Medini Rai had organized a weekly market to take place every Thursday on the main bazaar where farmers and craftsmen would sell their goods. To create a prosperous atmosphere whatever was not sold on the market day, he would buy himself. One day a sculptor came to sell an idol of the goddess Shani Dev, but no one bought it. As per the king's rule at the end of the market day he bought the idol. It was brought to the palace but the king ruled that the idol of Shani Dev should be placed and installed at the same spot where the sculptor sat to sell it and a temple be built there.
Harkund Bawdi (probably built well before the 13th century A.D.)
The Harkund step well is built near Mauryan Hill South West of the main town and can be seen right from the Chanderi Moongawali Road. No inscriptions have been found to tell about this bawdi. The architecture though shows that of ancient Vedic style. On the North side there is a platform on which a big dome has been made. On the South side is the popular Bijasan Devi Temple. On the West side is a Shani (Shiva) Temple which is why the bawdi has been named Harkund. The step well is daily used for bathing and washing clothes.
On the South end of the Harkund Bawdi is another larger step well which is known as Vishnu Kund.
Sri Kishore Temple - 12th century A.D. to 18th century A.D.
This Shani (Shiva) Temple is on the West side of Harkund Bawdi, and South West of the main town. Inside the temple are two pillars. On one of the pillars details are inscribed in Sanskrit and Nagri script which say that they were installed in 1271 A.D. The Shiva lingam here appears to have been installed in ancient times. There is now an additional Shiva and Ganesh temple built here which appear to be constructions from the Bundela period.
Mansingheshwar Mahadev Temple - 1724 A.D.
This temple can be reached on the West side of the Delhi Gate on the Parmeshwar Taal Marg. There are a number of Shani (Shiva) temples in this area. The Bundela rulers built many maths (religious schools) and temples within the inner main town of Chanderi. The prominent ones are Mansingheshwar Mahadev temple, Sidh Peeth, Sri Jageshwari Devi temple, Laxman Temple, and Harsiddhi Temple.
In 1724 during the rule of Durjan Singh Bundela the Prince Man Singh, son of Sri Kashishwar Chartvati Vikramaditya laid the foundation of Mansingheshwar Mahadev Temple and the inscription telling this can be seen on the entrance door. It is made up of 23 lines in Nagri script and Sanskrit language. The Prince Man Singh was a devotee of Jageshwari.
Sri Choubisi Jain Temple - 1836 A.D.
Chanderi has attracted the devotees of Jainism for at least 900 years. In and around Chanderi there are various ancient Jain religious sites. For example: Seronji, Deogarh, Sonagiri, Boodi Chanderi are but a few. The Sri Choubisi Temple although of recent construction has its own fame and recognition. In this temple there are 24 main Idols. Every year it attracts 10s of thousands of pilgrims.
The temple is divided into two parts. The first is an ancient one with a large dome. Around its walls are 24 artistic drawings depicting 24 religious places and events. The second part houses 24 large statues of the Jain saints carved and polished from stones of different colors and characteristics, starting from the first, Sri Aadinath, to the last, Sri Mahavir. According to the Shastras, sacred text of Jainism all of the 24 idols are made from stones of color and texture that must have been the real colors of the spiritual leaders. In the center of the courtyard is an impressive pillar made of white balua stone.
This temple also contains a giant statue of Sri Bhubali. Also the temple has a large library containing 1000s of ancient religious writings written on "leaves".
Kati Ghati Gate (Rock Cut Gate) - 1495 A.D.
The Kati Ghati stands at the Southern end of Chanderi. This impressive gate has been cut out of the standing rock of the Southern hill range that surrounds Chanderi. It is near the top of the hillside about 240 feet above the city, and the gate itself is over 30 feet high and 85 feet wide. It is known and been used since its construction as the entry gate into Chanderi for visitors and guests from Malwa and Bundelkhand. It was commissioned by Jimman Khan, son of Sher Khan in the year 1495 A.D. The whole gate and staircase leading to the roof has been cut from existing rock of the hillside.
The story of the gate is both interesting and tragic. In 1495 A.D. when Sher Khan was governor he received notice that King Gyasuddin Khilji the Sultan of Malwa was to visit Chanderi. Sher Khan's son Jimman Khan made various arrangements for the Sultan's arrival. While supervising the arrangements Jimman Khan was advised that the Sultan wished to be welcomed to Chanderi by the sight of a grand gateway at the top of the hill range. However by then there was only one day left till his arrival and a huge price was fixed for whomever could create such a gate in one day.
Only one stonemason agreed to the challenge and with his crew started to work on it. The next morning Jimman Khan got the news that the work was completed and he reached the site to inspect it. He was amazed to see that the gate had indeed been cut out the rock. On further inspection Jimman Khan saw that the craftsman did not leave any place to fit the door to close the gate. He told the craftsman that this gate formed the first line of security of the fort and as such it should of course have a door. To fit the door they would need to put in extra stone, and then the uniqueness of the gate would be lost. Jimman Khan refused to pay for the work and the craftsman in shame walked away empty handed. Later the craftsman committed suicide and his tomb can be found to the side of the gate. Still to this date the Kati Ghati has never had a door.
Baiju Bawra Smarak (tomb of Baiju Bawra) - 16th century A.D.
The Pandit Baiju Nath Prasad was born in Chanderi in the 16th century A.D. History books do not give any clear dates as to his birth or upbringing. It is believed that he was born to a rich religious family and grew up in one of the fine havelis of Chanderi. The story goes as he grew up Baiju wanted to lead a life that was beyond luxury and prosperity. He found more peace in the natural beauty around him and natural beauty inspired him to sing. He would visit Vrindavan with his parents where he became a student of music from Swami Hari Das. After his training he became well known through Bundelkhand in the field of music.
It is said the days Baiju lived in Chanderi he would stay by the lakeside where wild animals roamed and the fragrance of lotus flowers would compel him to sing. At this lake Baiju met and fell in love with a beautiful girl named Kala. However for certain reasons he could not marry her and he became so disheartened that he shut himself in his world of music forever. He would practice music to such an extent and intensity that people started calling him Bawra (mad person). The ruler of Chanderi having heard of Baiju appointed him as royal poet in the court. The king though had little sensitivity towards music and Baiju Bawra received little encouragement or fame.
At this time Maharaja Man Singh of Gwalior was supporting the importance of musicians and artist in his realm. Hearing about this Baiju Bawra left Chanderi for Gwalior and soon became a singer with in the Maharaja's Darbaar. In Gwalior Baiju was encouraged and wrote original works and proved to be masterful at it. He also taught music to the queen, Mrigaini and gained fame as an artist. When the Maharaja died, Baiju was compelled by circumstances to return to Chanderi. In historical texts it has been noted that Baiju Bawra who belonged to Chanderi also met his end there.
There is a well told story that Baiju once defeated Emperor Akbar's king of music Tansen in a competition near the jungles of Agra. There is evidence that a raga called Kalpdrum was created by Baiju and Tansen. Yet Baiju's name does not appear in the Ainay Akbari (Memoirs of Akbar) and some speculate the reason for this was that Baiju of Chanderi's talent was equal to Akbar's favorite singer Tansen. One of Baiju's raga called Dhrupado is preserved in the Chanderi museum.
The tomb of Baiju Bawra can be visited near the Jauhar Monument within the Kriti Durg hill fort.
Khandargiri Jain pilgrimage destination - 1236 A.D. to 1700s A.D. with modern additions (date of the large statue ?????)
Khandargiri is situated high on the hillside 2 kilometers South of the main town and can be reached by its own road near Kati Ghati Gate. This place is known for its 45 foot high statue of Rishabhnath that has been carved from the living rock of the hill. It is also famous for its religious training given to Jain disciples. The site is open during daylight hours to the public and people of all religions.
Six caves have been cut out of the hillside. Inside there are a number of religious carvings of Jain saints and decorations carved into the existing hillside. It is not clear how old these caves actually are and they very well may be much older than the rock cut carvings. The oldest dated cave is Cave 6, In this cave inscription in Sanskrit and Nagri script can still be found underneath each idol. An inscription dating back to 1236 A.D. can be read. Inscriptions telling of a Dharm Kirti 1645 A.D., Padam Kriti 1683 A.D., Lalit Kirti 1711 A.D. and a disciple Guddas can also be read.
At present some restoration and renovation work is ongoing at Khandargiri by the Choubisi Jain Temple Trust. In recent years protective structures have been built to house the caves, a garden has been maintained, and stairways built to reach the caves. Below the caves a Jain Dharmasala is also under construction.
Harkund Bawdi (probably built well before the 13th century A.D. with modern additions)
The Harkund step well is built near Mauryan Hill South West of the main town and can be seen right from the Chanderi Moongawali Road. No inscriptions have been found to tell about this bawdi. The architecture though shows that of ancient Vedic style. On the North side there is a platform on which a big dome has been made. On the South side is the popular Bijasan Devi Temple. On the West side is a Shani (Shiva) Temple which is why the bawdi has been named Harkund. The step well is daily used for bathing and washing clothes.
On the South end of the Harkund Bawdi is another larger step well which is known as Vishnu Kund.
Sri Kishore Temple - 12th century A.D. to 18th century A.D.
This Shani (Shiva) Temple is on the West side of Harkund Bawdi, and South West of the main town. Inside the temple are two pillars. On one of the pillars details are inscribed in Sanskrit and Nagri script which say that they were installed in 1271 A.D. The Shiva lingam here appears to have been installed in ancient times. There is now an additional Shiva and Ganesh temple built here which appear to be constructions from the Bundela period.
Jama Masjid - founded 1251 A.D. with additions over the centuries
The foundation of Jama Masjid began in 1251 A.D. to commemorate the victory and capture of Chanderi by the Delhi Sultanate under the command of Ghiassuddin Balban. They defeated the Pratihara Maharaja, Chanha Deva.
Over the halls of the Jama Masjid are three huge domes making a commanding and beautiful presence over the town. It is the largest mosque in Chanderi with a capacity for 3400 persons. The mosque is known for Friday prayers. Currently the Jama Masjid is being conserved by the Archeological Survey of India and is open to tourist between 10 AM to 5 PM.
Tomb of Makbara Hazrat Kamal Shah Rehmat - 1416 A.D.
Hazrat Kamal Shah Rehmat was a sufi saint who taught and meditated in Chanderi. He passed away 10th January, 1416 and his memorial can be found just outside of Chanderi at the Khinni Bawdi. He was a saint with mystical powers and preached communal harmony and the word of God.
There is a folk tale about Hazrat Kamal Shah Rehmat. On one occassion he was sitting on a platform preparing to have his head shaved. The baber raised his razor but before touching the saint a stream of blood came flowing from his head. The saint grew faint and fell unconscious. The barber was so afraid he ran screaming for help. People gathered around and started to scold the barber thinking he had cut the saint's head, but the barber insisted he had never touched or started shaving him.
The saint finally regained consciousness and explained to the people that it was not the barbers fault. He stated that at that moment he had a vision of some of his followers on a big ship which was floundering in a storm and his devotees were calling out to him for help. He then bent his head underneath the ship to pray for them when from somewhere a piece of wood hit him on the head and this was the reason for his bleeding. The people were astounded to hear this story and praised him for it. This tomb also preserves one of the sleeves of Hazrat Kamal Shah Rehmat for the devotees who visit here.
The Id Gaah - 1495 A.D.
Id Gaah is situated one kilometer Northwest of outer Chanderi. It has a large platform 100 by 80 square feet affording space for 1000s of people to pray. There are minarets on either side of the Id Gaah's two story high main hall. Its size only suggests what a large and religious Muslim community Chanderi must have been supporting during the time of its construction. At the main gate of this mosque there are inscriptions in Farsi and Nask script which says that the Id Gaah was constructed by Sher Khan in 1495 A.D.
It is said that during the the reign of Sultan Ghiassuddin Khilji in the year 1495 during the period of Ramzan, Sher Khan, the son of Muzaffar Ibrahim Shah, had this massive Id Gaah constructed. At the main gate of this mosque there are inscriptions in Farsi and Nask script which says that the Id Gaah was constructed by Sher Khan in 1495 A.D.
Taalab and Bawdi (man made pools and step wells) of Chanderi
During the rule of the Mughal Emperor Akbar, his chronicler Abul Fazal wrote in the Ainay Akbari (Memoirs of Akbar) about the town of Chanderi. He stated that there were an estimated 1200 Bawdi (step wells) in Chanderi. The question arises, why so many Bawdi and aritifical pools. The reason of course is water management and many administrations and rulers who were thoughtful of proper civil upkeep of the towns infrastructure. During the medieval period Chanderi had a population well over one hundred thousand. So the need for proper water management was crucial. Also some of the more elaborate and grand bawdi in Chanderi were reserved for the use of royals, aristocrats, and some pools were reserved for the use of only upper class woman.
Chanderi also is 2200 feet above sea level at a high elevation along the Vindyachal Range. Scarcity of water has always been an issue in this area. Bawdies were built all though Chanderi with large ponds excavated in outlying areas where rainwater collected from the hills and served to keep the level of the water in the bawdies stable. The water from these ponds was and is still also used for farm irrigation.
Today only a few of these step wells are used for the gathering of daily household water and most all of these few bawdi have modern pumps that can bring the water to the surface in useful quantities. There are a few bawdi used by washermen and local folk as favorite spots to wash clothes.